The Road to Baja Page 17

Our first mistake was talking to a group of several 4-wheeling couples who are heading all the way down and back through Baja off road.  They happened to be staying in the same hotel in Puerto San Carlos. 

We began talking about the adventure they have been having.  Since they were still heading south and we, of course, are northward bound, I was very keen to hear about it.  

We had planned on heading toward Mulege (pronounced "moo-la-hay"). It's about 200 miles over conventional roads.  But thanks to our new friends, we had discovered another route.…  

What is known as Highway 53 on some maps, ends up close to Mulege too.  We were told how it  is a beautiful but pretty rough off road section.  But, hey, it's only about 36 miles of dirt… they assured me too, that my truck could make it.  Janet reluctantly agreed, so a little before 8:00 AM, we were on our way. 

We drove back out to Ciudad Constitucion and up to Ciudad Insurgentes. Highway 1 heads East from there and 53 continues north.  53 passes through several towns before becoming dirt in La Purisma (a pretty town that we didn't take the time to explore).  

Before tackling the dirt, we turned off in the direction of San Juanico and followed that road up to Scorpion Bay.  Pretty little fishing village.  

The road was still paved up to the town but signs of the damage from the hurricane was very evident all of the way from highway 1.  Almost every bridge has washed away and water has undercut the roadway in hundreds of places.  Sometimes the undercut was bad enough from both sides of the road that the single path through was a little questionable.  Pressed on, we did!

Back at the turn off in La Purisma, we headed for the dirt crossing to La Mar de Cortez.  We were warned that it was rough and their description may have been a little understated.  

After climbing the single lane path, up an incline of approximately 45 degrees, navigating our way over boulders and ruts of enormous size, we arrived at the river bed. 

Apparently, before the last torrential rain, an attempt was made to grade the pathway.  No evidence of their hard work remained.  

The rest of our drive over this "road" was unrelenting. Up, down, around and over some of the biggest obstacles we have faced so far. 

Look closely at the fence way up in the air. That used to be the surface. 

We met a few travellers as we crossed. Our first encounter was several Baja Buggies, our first clue of what we were yet to face. At about the halfway point, we stopped and chatted a bit with a couple coming from Mulege, on their way to the Pacific for a few days.  Their road reports were just as glum as what we had already negotiated and there description was spot on. 

By far the funniest couple we saw, were in a very small Hyundai rental car, beating the absolute crap out of it crossing over rocks and ruts that I was worried could take out my oil pan.  (If you ever buy a used rental car, make sure it's not from Mexico!)

It took from 7:50 AM to about 4:30 PM, but we made it to highway 1.  

Pointed North toward Mulege, we pulled into the first Cantina we found, still about 17 miles out.  Naturally, we met some great people there who got to telling us about the 50's Rock and Roll night at another close by bar, the following night.  Hymmm…?

Finally to town, a room and dinner where, yep, more great people to talk to.  Gotta love it!

February 28, 2015, Sabàdo

We have met so many great people and had such a great time in Mulege, we have decided to stay for another night.  

The couple we were speaking to at dinner last night (from Shuswap Lake, BC, Canada) were telling us about a couple of Mexican people in town who are trying to learn English and hold an informal "class" or get togethers with people who are trying to learn Spanish. The idea is to sit have conversations.  We just had to join them!  

What a blast!  Absolutely lovely people, naturally, and about 3 hours later we have new friends and can add a few new words of Espanol to our arsenal.  Hopefully they have learned a little from our American group too. 

Since we're here, we'll be heading to 50's night in a few minutes. 

The Road to Baja Page 16

For the first time in about three weeks, we pointed the Taco(ma) north and began our voyage up the Pacific side of Baja. 

First stop was in Todo Santos, the location of the famous "Hotel California" from the song by The Eagles.  This is located only about 50 miles north of Cabo San Lucas so we arrived early in the day.  

The hotel still stands proudly in the Center of town but much of the rest of the town looks as though it took a sizeable hit from the oft mentioned hurricane of last fall.  There just happens to be an Art Festival taking place in town and several tour busses were busy offloading tourists who were rapidly filling the town. 

We stayed long enough to take a look at the hotel and a fair number of shops and galleries before deciding to continue on. 

The next town up the road is La Paz, where we had left just a couple of days ago.  Instead of returning for another evening, we consulted the map.   Ciudad Constitucion was the next city on the highway, but not too far from there is a small town on the Pacific coast, Puerto San Carlos.  It can even be accessed from a paved road!

We booked a room at the Hotel Alcatraz, a very cute little place on the edge of town that has received great online reviews.  

After settling in, we took a walk around town.  That revealed a fishing village with a mix of clams and shrimp seeming to be the main stays. 

A little dinner back at the hotel and we'll be good 'till morning.  Not sure yet where we'll end up tomorrow. 

The Road to Baja Page 15

An interesting tidbit… if you park illegally, at least in Cabo, they will not only ticket your car but they will take your license plates.  That is their means of being assured you will pay your fines.  How do I know this?  I was told by the lady that runs our hotel.  I made sure to park legally. 

Today, we goofed around Cabo. 

Nice teats!

Absolutely excellent dinner!

The Road to Baja Page 14

We have arrived in Cabo San Lucas, BCS, Mexico.  Over 3000 miles from our home in Seattle and at the very south end of Baja.  So far an excellent trip full of beautiful scenery, places and people.  Second to none. 

We officially crossed the Tropic of Cancer and entered the Zona Tropical.

 From there, our trip took us back out to the coast for the last remaining miles of The Sea of Cortez.  We watched beline whales jumping, finning and spouting much of the way down the sea and on into the Pacific.  Several nice towns and communities along the way and virtually every spot of beach had a camper or bungalow.  The tranquility of the surroundings is awesome. 

The road we had started out on was pockmarked asphalt with pot holes that you could hide a small child in.  It turned to dirt a few miles later.  That left us 50 miles or so to navigate on sand, rocks, washboard sand and almost washed out areas, that appears to have remains of the storm.  We finally found pavement after what felt like a much further trip than the odometer could confirm, only to find a road closed sign because of reconstruction follow damage by last year's hurricane.

 The GPS was coaxed into giving us an alternative route which led us to a fenced off "Private Property" sign.  We turned around and decided to ask directions at a cute cantina on the outskirts of a small community that we had passed a few miles back. 

Not only does Zac's Bar & Grill serve a great Margarita and cold cerveza, but we stumbled upon "Taco Tuesday" as well!  Oh yes, and our reason for our stop was to ask if any remaining roads existed to Los Cabos.  One road in fact did bypass the area of reconstruction.  We took that road. 

So far, our first impression has us thinking that Cabo has recovered quite well.  There is lots of construction taking place but the tourist area is in full swing.  Few signs remain of the impact the hurricane had taken, just a few months earlier. Restaurants a-buzz and people strolling, even on a Tuesday night. 

The Road to Baja Page 13

We pulled up steaks today and headed to La Paz.  Not directly, however.  Several people we had talked to, highly recommended we make the trip to see the Mission in San Javier. So we did.  The winding little road to the Mission is carved into the side mountain.  By the size and number of washouts and slides it appears it was barely hanging on to the mountain for much of its 40 or so kilometres. 

The Mission is very impressive and situated in a beautiful little town of about 300 inhabitants. 

Back on the main highway, it was about 200 miles to our nights destination.  Short enough but the narrow road demands full attention.  

We did make a quick stop for a lunch burrito at an extremely cute cocina. 

Into town, it was easy to find the hotel that I'd stayed at on a previous motorcycle trip.  Located just across the street from their very nice and quite long malecon.

 

A kids carnival was taking place next to our hotel and down for quite a little ways.  Strolling through that chaos helped us decide to head to the other end of the malecon to find a place for dinner. 

Monday, February 23rd

Now that things have calmed down on the malecon and the work week has begun for the "other people", it was a much more relaxing stroll around town. 

We had walked down the malecon for a mile or more then turned up town to see what the town looks off the beach. Pretty much as we had suspected, a working town. Nice place. 

We hopped in the truck when we got back and drove out to the ferry terminal to look at the many resorts and fancy communities on the way.  A little lunch at what I call "The Sand Bar" and it was time to take the Tacoma for a much needed bath.  All of the time spent off road and fording streams can really leave a thick layer of mud and dust on everything. 

An excellent dinner at "The Tail Hunter" while watching the sun set.  We're leaving for Cabo in the morning.